Returning to Yosemite has made me think about fear. More specifically: the things to be scared of in the USA. Dr Curly has been good enough to give me some advice about his top 3 fears:
1. Viruses
Not only elephants are scared of mice. Best to avoid them, chipmunks and ground squirrels at all times, otherwise they will give you Hanta Virus or the plague, or worse still eat your food.
2. Super Sizing
This is the greatest risk of all, and I’m not talking about the food those mice are nibbling at. It is the diners you should fear. Probably best to follow my Big Wall Weight Loss Program before these “rest day” meals take their toll.
3. Climbing
Climbing is the last thing to be scared of, but easier routes have more potential for fear. “Easy” routes have less protection, as it’s not considered necessary. Just don’t throw a wobbler and give up. Keep looking down only as far as your feet and keep climbing up that slab. Or avoid them and just climb hard routes.
If the climbing is looking a little sketchy think of a reason as to why your partner should lead. For example: you having done this classic pitch before. Don’t think “what is the worst that could happen”, think about what is going to happen: you are going to “send” (aka climb) this route. Reality check on the other the other possibilities, the most painful being loss of pride. The best way of avoiding this is swearing your partner to silence.
If planning a big wall to “warm up on” ensure to pick a route with a sufficiently ironic name. Lurking Fear would be a good choice.
Not only elephants are scared of mice. Best to avoid them, chipmunks and ground squirrels at all times, otherwise they will give you Hanta Virus or the plague, or worse still eat your food.
2. Super Sizing
This is the greatest risk of all, and I’m not talking about the food those mice are nibbling at. It is the diners you should fear. Probably best to follow my Big Wall Weight Loss Program before these “rest day” meals take their toll.
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| Tucking into a Chicken-Fried-Steak. It isn’t chicken, but it is fried and very tasty. |
Climbing is the last thing to be scared of, but easier routes have more potential for fear. “Easy” routes have less protection, as it’s not considered necessary. Just don’t throw a wobbler and give up. Keep looking down only as far as your feet and keep climbing up that slab. Or avoid them and just climb hard routes.
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| Marian Jones on South Crack at Stately Pleasure Dome |
If planning a big wall to “warm up on” ensure to pick a route with a sufficiently ironic name. Lurking Fear would be a good choice.
Simon
Sage advice! Same holds true for big walls... harder aid = standing in aiders on gear... easier aid on Salathe = 30m runout off-width free climbing!
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