|Courtesy of Rita Rosenblum|
So here is a little video documentary of our ascent of Moonlight Buttress, a classic aid route in Zion National Park, Utah. Although it was only 9 pitches high, there was a lot of aid climbing so it took 2 days. On the first day, we climbed up 4 pitches (I led my first aid pitch), before fixing our ropes and abseiling back down to the ground. Snow and cold weather were forecast for the next day so that evening we celebrated my birthday with dinner and a few drinks. On November 11th, we headed back to Moonlight to jug up our fixed ropes and finish the job.
Here's the story (make sure your sound is on):
The Early Morning Walk-In
Up at 4.30am, we racked up at the van and made our way to the base of the route, ready to climb as the sun came up. Because we climbed this route over 2 days we had to cross back and forth through the icy river in the valley. This was our third crossing and it hadn't got any easier!
Si Jumars Up The Ropes
When we climbed the first 4 pitches, we fixed one end of the rope to an anchor, abseiled down that rope, then fixed our second rope at another anchor so that we could reach the ground. When we returned to the route we were relieved to find our ropes still in place and intact. Next was the strenuous task of jumaring (prusiking) up the ropes with all our gear. I went second and collected the ropes so that we could re-use them for climbing.
Top of Pitch 4
This was the only pitch that I climbed in the sun. After that, it moved round the corner and I was left to slowly freeze in the shade. If you want to free this pitch it goes at 5.12d or E6/7 in pounds sterling. Last time we were here, two gnarly women were working the route. We encountered them again practicing the final pitches. I hope they managed to put it all together in a full free ascent, if so I think they'd be the second all female team to do this. Go girls!!
|Maz Cleaning Pitch 4|
Admiring The View
When Simon reaches the top of an aid pitch he fixes the rope and I climb up it, collecting the rope and the gear as I go. This means that Simon doesn't have to belay - he just gets to sit there, admiring the view and eating Clif Bars!
Simon Climbing Pitch 7