Occasional postings about Maz and Si's big adventures

Routes Log Book

Sunday 22nd August
West Crack 5.9***, Daff Dome, Toulumne: 6 mostly 60m pitches
Maz says: fun crack up an endless slab. Not too taxing, except for a couple of airy moves to get to the belay.
Si says: Great first route.

Monday 23rd August
Regular Route 5.9 *** Fairview Dome, Toulumne: 10 full ropelength pitches
One of America's Classic 50 climbs
Maz says: Another awesome route. Started hard and got easier as the dome leveled out. Needed a pee most of the way up
Si says: Getting used to these loooong pitches of continuous crack climbing (50m plus).

Tuesday 24th August
Cooke Book 5.10a ***, Daff Dome, Toulumne: 5 pitches
Maz says: unprotected scary moves at the bottom. Did some more scary moves to belay in the wrong place. More laybacking and handjamming up a slab until my calves were screaming. 5.10a move was very precarious!
Si says: Super polished crux.

Thursday 26th August
Needle and Spoon 5.10a *** Pywiack Domes, Toulumne: 2 pitches
Spiral Dyke 5.9***: 3 pitches
Aqua Knobby 5.9***: 5 pitches
Maz says: improbable friction moves up a smooth slab. No point taking a rack really!
Si says: Easy climbing clearly doesn't require protecting....

Friday 27th August
Sticks and Stones 5.10a**, Sticks and Stones, Toulumne: 2 pitches
Maz says: I thought I had the hang of hand-jamming. This evil, overhanging off-width proved me wrong!
Si says: Classic jamming action.
Shagadelic 5.8***, Medlicott Dome, Toulumne: 2 pitches
Maz says: We did this one by accident. Thought it was easy!
Si says: I knew we shouldn't be finding 10a that easy.
Excellent Smithers 5.10a***, Medlicott Dome, Toulumne: 3 pitches
Maz says: Did the last supposedly 5.8 pitch. As this one was the easiest, they hadn't bothered putting many bolts in it. Eek! Bailed out of the last couple of scary moves to the belay so sent Si up it instead!
Si says: As i said, easy climbing equals no gear!

Sunday 29th August
Salathe Wall (P1) C1. El Cap, Yosemite
Maz Says: Si did well. Fluid and confident. I did less well – couldn't remove the gear. Oh dear!!
Si says: Picked this route from the ground as didn't seem to be mentioned in the book. Turned out to be Salathe pitch one, which gets a whole page in the guidebook...

Monday 30th August
Moby Dick Centre 5.10a***, El Cap Yosemite 1 pitch
Sacherer Cracker 5.10a*** 2 pitches
La Cosita Right, 5.9*** 1 pitch
Maz says: I hate steep off-width climbing! No style or grace!!
Si says: Super crack-tastic. I should start taping up.

Tuesday 31st August
East Buttress 5.9 A1***, Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite
Another of America's top 50. Very traditional.
Maz says: evil rock worming up open bottomed, leaf filled chimneys. Character building!!
Si says: Crack and chimney climbing on a larger scale. A bit like the Peak.

Thursday 2nd September
Serenity Crack 5.10d***, Royal Arches, Yosemite, 3 pitches
Maz says: really cool crackline, bit of a soft touch (maybe that's why I liked it!)
Si says: Scary start and over graded crux. But absolutely serene climbing!


Friday 3rd September
Lost Arrow Spire, 5.7 A2 ***, Yosemite
Maz says: adrenaline fueled fun!
Si says: Aid climbing? Easy.

Sunday 5th September
Lucky Streaks 5.10d ***, Fairview, Toulumne, 6 pitches
Maz says: another great route. Even made some friends on the way up.
Si says: Lovely stress-free climbing. Even the weather was a little cooler.

Monday 6th September,
Central Pillar of Frenzy, 5.9***, Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, 5 pitches
Maz says: evil, evil offwidth!
Si says: Good training.

Tuesday 7th September
Northeast Buttress, 5.10***, High Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, 11 pitches
Maz says: a proper adventure. An absolute sandbag too!
Si says: First decent in the dark. Clearly we are now trying hard enough.


Thursday 9th September
The Stigma A2**, Cookie Cliff, Yosemite, 1 pitch
Pringles, 5.11a/b **, 1 pitch
Outer Limits 5.10a**, 1 pitch
Catchy 5.10d***, 1 pitch
Maz says: the secret to crack climbing, I discovered today, is to only climb cracks which fit your hands!
Si says: We need more cams!

Saturday 11th – Sunday 12th September
South Face Washington Column, V 5.9 C1 ***. Yosemite, 11 pitches
Maz says: epic aid route – terrified myself on the Kor Roof, but enjoyed all the other aid pitches (free pitch was another nasty chimney!)
Si says: Roof-tastic. Excellent first-timers Big Wall.

Tuesday 14th September
East Buttress El Capitan, 5.10b **. Yosemite, 13 pitches
Maz says: except for one short chimney at the start, this was a lovely open climb with airy aretes.
Si says: Don't try those new comfy large fitting aid-climbing shoes on 10b climbing. Lucky I had my trusty old 5.10s in my pack.

16-18th September
West Face, Leaning Tower, V 5.7 C2. Yosemite, 11 pitches
Maz says: I can now jug anything!!
Si says: Proper aid climbing! Extra night on the top of the face as we hadn't got a place to camp in The Valley. And we'd hauled enough for two nights. Superb.

21st - 23rd September
North West Face Direct VI, 5.10 C2 ***, 23 pitches, Half Dome, Yosemite
Maz Says: Each individual pitch was fine, but one stacked on top of the other was epic! I cried on pitch 16, but walked across Thank God Ledge (most people get down on their knees and pray!)
Si Says: Most tired I've ever been climbing. Awesome.

Monday 27th September
Third Pillar of Dana 5.10b***, High Sierra
Maz Says: Superb. Very jealous that Si got to lead the last pitch.
Si Says: She had the option...

Wednesday 29th September
Red Dehidral 5.10b***, Incredible Hulk, High Sierra
Maz Says: Great alpine climbing. Was a bit worried when stuck half way through the window squeeze at the top.
Si Says: Nice alpine styly route.

Saturday 2nd October
Just Say No 5.9*** trad, Elephant, City of Rocks
Rye Crisp 5.8d**** trad, Elephant
Wheat Thin 5.7*** trad, Elephant
The Pygmies got Stoned 5.10a*** sport, Elephant
Sudden Pleasure, 5.11a/b**, sport, Rabbit
Red Tail, 5.11a ****, sport, Rabbit
Just Another Pretty Face, 5.10d***, sport, Parking Lot
Maz Says: all good fun on clean, sticky rock. It's like a compacted, exaggerated Northumberland!
Si Says: Sport-tabulous!

Sunday 3rd October
Funky Bolt 5.9***, trad, Parking Lot
Thin Slice, 5.10a***, trad, Parking Lot
Cairo 5.11a***, sport, Parking Lot
Skyline 5.8****, trad, Morning Glory
A Morning Glory 5.10c*** (3 pitches), sport, Morning Glory
Maz Says: Getting into it now. Bring on the sport. Oh wait, it's started to rain . . .
Si Says: Damn the rain!

Wednesday 6th October
Wake Up Call 5.10a/b sport, Plontinous Wall, Boulder Canyon
Snooze Button 5.10a/b sport
Smell the Coffee 5.10a sport
Daily Grind 5.10d top rope
Napster 5.10a sport
The Scientist 5.11a sport
Mr Sandman 5.10a sport
Maz Says: The guide book gave these routes stars, but I haven't bothered. Quite good but short. Access was a nightmare!!
Si Says: "My elbow hurts."

Sunday 10th October
Moab Brand Trails, Mtn Biking, Moab Brand Trails
Maz Says: You ride around on rock?!
Si Says: A bit flat for my liking.

Monday 11th October
SlickRock, Mtn Biking, Moab
Maz Says: I prefer Kielder
Si Says: Interval training. Sweet.

Tuesday 12th October
Kokopelli (Si only), Mtn Biking, Moab
Si Says: Fast and down. Sweet.

Wednesday 13th October
Porcupine Rim (Inc UPS and LPS), Mtn Biking, Moab
Maz Says: Possibly the most (legal) fun you can have in Utah!
Si Says: Not a lot is legal in Utah. Sweet.

Thursday 14th October
Amasa Back, Mtn Biking, Moab
Maz Says: watch out for the ATVs!
Si Says: And the jeepers putting fake snakes on the trail.

Friday 15th October
Sovereign Trails. Mtn Biking, Moab
Maz Says: Great fun. Over so soon? :0(
Si Says: Desert fun.

Sunday 17th October
The Whole Enchilada. Moab.
Si Says: Over 2000 meters vertical descent from the moutains to Moab. Almost as good as the Alps.

Tuesday 19th October
Donnelly's Canyon, Indian Creek
Binou's Crack 5.9***
Maz Says: Wow – a crack I can lead. Still fell off though!
Si Says: This is the best cragging destination ever.
Chocolate Corner 5.9***
Elephant Man 5.10+***
Generic Crack 5.10***
Unnamed 5.10+*** (Simon Only)

Wednesday 20th October
Supercrack Buttress, Indian Creek
Supercrack 5.10****
Maz Says: this made my feet hurt too much!
Twin Cracks 5.9**
Incredible Hand Crack 5.10****
3am Crack 5.10****
Maz Says: It just got wider and wider – thin fingers to fat forearms. Unfortunately, I don't have fat forearms,but somehow I made it up.
Si Says: I just can't get enough crack action.

Thursday 21st October
Reservoir Wall, Indian Creek
Warm up Hand Crack 5.10****
Maz Says: Pretty strenuous for a warm up!
Dr Carl 5.10***
Maz Says: I liked this one – it wasn't really a crack climb which meant I could lead it!
Pente 5.11-****
Maz Says: No comment!
Unnamed 5.10*
Maz Says: Wide and nasty!

Sunday 24th October
Battle of the Bulge Buttress, Indian Creek
Warm up Route 5.9** (Maz only)
The Jagged Wedge 5.10** (Si only)
Crack Attack 5.11****
Maz Says: It was only a crack at the top, before that there was a roof and a layback and all sorts of nice climbing!
Big Baby 5.11**** Top Rope (Si only)
Battle of the Bulge 5.11**** Top Rope
Maz Says: How do you lead this? It's a 20m layback with no rests and a big bulge ¾ of the way up!
Si Says: I can barely imagine leading some of these hideous offwidth cracks...

Tuesday 26th October
Scarface, Indian Creek
Drawkward 5.9*
Maz Says: It wasn't really awkward, just had a conundrum crux at the top!
Wavy Gravy 5.10-***
Spam 5.9** (Maz only)
Black Uhuru 5.10+****
Maz Says: Had an epic at the top when I couldn't hold on long enough to clip the gear. I blame our heavy 10mm rope!
Scarface 5.11-****
Maz Says: I just climbed the interesting bit at the bottom and then abandoned the second half of the climb when it turned into AFC (Another F*#king Crack)
Si Says: More good climbing....

Wednesday 27th October
Cat Wall, Indian Creek
Tom Cat 5.10*** (Si only)
Kool Cat 5.11****
Kitty Litter 510+ Top Rope (Maz Only)
King Cat 5.11+ Top Rope (Si Only)
Si Says: Still the best cragging in the world.

Thursday 28th October
Battle of the Bulge, Indian Creek
Railroad Tracks 5.10***
Unnamed 5.10-*
Piece of Real Estate 5.11
Ruins Crack 5.11 (top rope)
Maz Says: Hardest 5.11 so far – or maybe we're tired?!

Maz Says:
Dark Angel 5.9 AO, Arches National Park 2 pitch desert tower
Maz Says: Hmm – this meringue tower of hollow, sandy choss made Jack Rock seem like a solid block of rock!
Si Says: Thrutching through sand. Nice peak though.

Sunday 31st October
Super Crack Buttress, Indian Creek (yes, we went back for more!)
The Wave 5.10+****
KeyHole Flakes 5.10**
Coyne Crack 5.11+ **** Top Rope (Si Only)
Si Says: Sweet.

Monday 1st November
Lightning bolt Crack 5.11-****, North Six Shooter, Indian Creek, 3 pitch desert tower
Maz Says: Hard, hard, hard! Si sent this in fine style, I mostly hung on the gear and cried!
Si Says: Extremely pleased with this. Hard varied climbing - fingers to body squeezing!

Tuesday 2nd November
Kor-Ingalls 5.9+****, Castleton Tower, Castle Valley 4 pitch desert tower
Maz Says: Awesome route with an amazing view at the top (where we met some climbers we knew!). My joy of climbing has been restored!
Si Says: Nice mellow climb and very awesome summit.

Thursday 4th November
Zion National Park
The Headache 5.10+
Migraine 5.11
Maz Says: Wow - crack climbing with footholds!
Si Says: Nice clean climbing. Unlike the rest of Zion....

Friday 5th November
Zion National Park
Touchstone Wall IV/V 5.11 C2
Maz Says: Sandy and hot! Climbed in a bad mood all day.
Si Says: Excellent route. I thought i was going to die on the 5.7 protection-less climbing on the last pitch. Seriously.

Sunday 7th November
Zion National Park
North East Buttress of Angels Landing IV 5.10+
Maz Says: Hmm - which is preferable sandy holds or mossy holds, or the ones that break off when you grab them? The good pitches were really good, though!
Si Says: A few cool pitches in-between what can only be described as sandy horrorshow climbing.

Tuesday 9th and Thursday 11th November
Zion National Park
Moonlight Buttress V 5.10d C1
Maz Says:  Cold, so cold!  Led my first aid pitch though - that was cool!
Si Says:  Very glad to have free'd the top pitch. Classic. 

Friday 12th and Saturday 13th November
Zion National Park
Space Shot IV 5.10 C2
Maz Says: Cool crack climbing, misleading guidebook details and a heady amount of exposure as I backed off hanging on a hook and sent Si up the final aid pitch instead.
Si Says:  Best pitch of free climbing in Zion at the top of the headwall.  Perfect hand crack with the crux where it should be - at the end!

Wednesday 17th November
Red Rocks
Panty Wall
Boxer Rebellion 5.8 Sport
Panty Raid 5.10*** Trad
Viagra Falls 5.12** Sport
Maz Says:  This is nice, there's proper holds and they don't snap off in your hand!

Thursday 18th November
Red Rocks
Black Corridor
Living on Borrowed Time 5.11c****
Vagabonds 5.10a
Black Gold 5.10b****
Route 4 5.10
Route 5 5.10
+ 4 more random routes
Maz Says: It's like a climbing wall but outside!  Black Gold was a bit of a sandbag!


Friday 19th November
Red Rocks
Black Velvet Canyon
The Gobbler 5.10***
Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10****
Maz Says: Great climbing up a big face.  Apparently, a few days before, the spine of climber, John Rosholt, aka The Gambler, were found on a ledge just above our route.  He'd been missing for 5 years.  There is a conspiracy theory that he was knocked off by one of casinos in nearby Vegas.  Ooh eer!!

Monday 22nd November
Joshua Tree, Echo Rock
Stitcher Quits 5.7*** sport
Heart & Sole 5.10**** mixed
RML 5.9** sport
CS Special 5.10b*** (one route with 2 bolts as the only protection is not sport)
Stick to What 5.9*** Sport
Maz Says: Death defying first bolts - run out nightmare!!!!


Wednesday 24th November
Joshua Tree
Intersection Rock
The Flake 5.8** trad
Overhand Bypass p1 5.7**
North Overhang 5.9**
Lower and upper right Ski Track 5.10b***
Unnamed 5.9 Bolted
Maz Says: Bit better.  Not risking life and limb today, but it's bl@*dy cold in the shade!



Thursday 25th November
Joshua Tree
Old Woman Rock
Toe Jam 5.7**
Dogleg 5.8**
Double Cross 5.7+****
Route 499 5.11b**
Dandelion 5.10a**
Maz Says:  Getting into it no, although Si made the mistake of trying to climb in the shade again.  Doh!

Friday 26th November
Joshua Tree
Tumbling Rainbow
Run for Your Life 5.10b**** TR
unknown bolted 5.11b (Si fell off at the chain!)
Howser Buttress
Loose Lady 5.9****
Puss 'n Boots 5.11c TR
Maz Says:  Fun, but did spend a long time wandering round in search of routes in the sun, with gear and no queues!

Saturday 27th November
Joshua Tree
Rusty Wall
O'Kelley's Crack 5.10c****
Wangerbanger 5.11c**** TR
Maz Says: I never thought I'd be so happy to see a handjam crack!

South Astro Dome
Solid Gold 5.10a****
Maz Says:  First pitch was more like 5.11a - tiny, polished holds and bolts that were at least 5 metres apart in places.  2nd pitch was just awesome though - J Tree has redeemed itself!

Monday 29th November
Joshua Tree
Real Hidden Valley
Illusion Dweller 5.10b
Maz Says: Finally a J Tree 5.10 I can lead!  Awesome final route of the trip!






7 comments:

  1. wow - good climbing guys! see that si has you organised to only climb 3 days and then rest for 1. impressed!!! mega climb tastic! we are just back from cycling in the pyrenees - Evan loved it. he can say 'bike' and 'au revoir' now!

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  2. Thats a huge list of climbs! Well done. Although I have to say none of them sound as good as Great Western at Almscliff! We went to the Picos at the start of September and had three great days of climbing.

    Not that I'm competative but Ekaitz can say way more words than Evan.

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  3. Very impressive. I like the "he says/ she says" comments!

    By the way, I can order two beers anywhere in Western Europe, so I reckon that beats Evan & Ekaitz put together. ;)

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  4. yeah. that is impressive rich! I LOL at Jon and Jo's last comment...

    we are taking them both to the fireworks at Karl's tomorrow night - we'll let you know how we get on...!!

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  5. Ekaitz didn't like the fireworks, Evan had some ear defenders on and really enjoyed them. Al got very drunk again but just managed to avoid offending Trish this time!

    The list of climbs grow more impressive every day but Si shoudl get his hair cut

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  6. Just looked at the pictures from "Indian Creek" I think you've been at Millstone by day and busy with Photoshop in the evening.

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  7. Photoshop is indeed a wonderful thing...
    I'm expecting some photos of Movember!

    ReplyDelete