2018: Routes Logbook

 Tuolumne


Mon 10 September

West Country, 5.7, Stateley Pleasure Dome

Maz says: bit epic getting to the first proper pitch, but fun crack climbing from there on.
Si says: Classic climbing. Lost my jamming glove before I even got the chance to use it.

Tues 11 September

South Crack, 5.8, Stately Pleasure Dome

Maz says: sustained crack climbing followed by run out slabs.  Believe in the friction!
Si says: Great time to learn protection-less slab climbing. 

Wed 12 September

Cathedral Peak 5.6

Maz says: Beautiful climbing with stunning views.  WINDY!
Si says: Most excellent of summits – a bit like sitting on a car roof. 

Fri 14 September

Crying Time Again, 5.10a Lambert Dome

Maz says: Nice climbing but a cold experience.
Si says: All good alpine feel climbing. 

Sat 15 September

Cresent Arch, 5.9+ Daff Dome

Maz says: amazing arch feature.  The polished and awkward description was accurate.  Ballsy!
Si says: Could have done with a little more gear. 

Sun 16 September

4 single pitch routes 5.8 – 5.11, somewhere near Mammoth Lakes

Maz says: a really fun day out with Kristen, Jim and their kids.
Si says: Well bolted by Jim. Great to see Kristen and her family. 

Yosemite Valley


Mon 17 September

Commitment 5.9, 3 pitches, Five Open Books

Maz says: sustained crack pitch, then awkward roof.
Si says: First pitch sweaty smooth Yosemite classic. 

Selaginella 5.8, 4 pitches Five Open Books, Upper Tier

Maz says: Offwidth - back to the classic art of thrutching.
Si says: All good. 

Tues 18 September

Regular Route 5.9+, Higher Cathedral Spire

Maz says: Cruxy!  Fantastic to top out on this amazing spire.  Nervous solo climber did not enhance the experience!
Si says: Interesting route finding. 


Thur 20 September

Super Slacker Highway, 5.10b/c 8 pitches, Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Maz says: super safe – modern route with bolts next to all the difficult moves.  Lots of fun.
Si says: Broken off holds making the cruxes good value bouldering affairs.

Fri 21 September

Braille Book, 5.8+, 5 pitches, Higher Cathedral

Maz says: classic, old route with no gear next to any of the difficult moves. Still good fun!
Si says: Just want we needed. 

Sun 23 September

Freeblast 5.10c, C1+,10 pitches, El Cap.

Maz says: thrilled to climb this route. Fantastic to be back on El Cap, but glad that Si led all the pitches – very polished!

Si says: Bit of an epic trying to aid climb “Half Dollar” to avoid the polished chimney… 

Tues 25 September

Kung Fu Panda 5.10a 1 pitch, The ToeJo, Middle Cathedral

Maz says: ok route, but too easy for 10a and too broken to be a classic.  Not three stars
Si says: struggling with my Mojo on this one. 

Jungle Boogie, 5.10a, 1 pitch, Mecca, Middle Cathedral

Maz says: lovely slab climbing on micro granite, just like Bram Crag!
Si says: Getting better…

Mecca Lite, 5.10c, 1 pitch, Middle Cathedral
Maz says: great little sport route, once we’d made a clip stick to clip the first bolt!
Si says: back to normal Mojo levels. 

Wed 26 September

Central Pillar of Frenzy, 5.9, 5 pitches, Middle Cathedral

Maz says: enjoyed this route a lot more than last time.  Although 5.6 is NOT equivalent to Severe!  All good, until we started to abseil back down . . .
Si says: I love prussiking. Ropes got stuck! 

Sun 7 October

Absolutely Free, 5.9, 6 pitches, Lower Brother

Maz says: amazing splitter crack to test out our new gear.
Si says: All good. 

Mon 8 October

Super Slide, 5.9, 5 pitches, Arches

Maz says: had to switch to this because of the queues on Serenity Crack.  Fun route, nevertheless.
Si says: Slippy last pitch

Pole Position, 5.10a, 1 pitch, Church Bowl

Maz says: pleasant technical climbing on a toprope!
Si says: Bloody scary for a “sport” route. 

Friday 12 October

Nutcracker, 5.9 (alternative start), 5 pitches, Ranger Rock

Maz says: lovely route.  Great sunbathing ledge half way up!

Si says: Nicely led first pitch by Maz. 

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